“I love cats and I like to be in high heels all the time no matter where I go.”
— Keds Krome, Designer/ex-model
Kohima, January 2013.
“We are big fans of FKA Twigs. We both like wearing stuff made from blankets & shawls and we often borrow our parents’ and grandparents’ coats and trousers.”
Who are your fashion icons?
Bjork, Jemima Kirke, FKA Twigs, Young Thug, Solange Knowles, David Bowie.
How would you describe the way you are dressed in the photo?
Japanese Spaceman & Deconstructed Granny.
Fashion Week, New Delhi. October 2016.
Looking at the photos from this day I realized that I’ve mostly photographed people who fall socio-economically below the middle class. It’s fairly easy to point out the poorest. Their clothes don’t fit them perfectly(mostly loose) & are usually layered. The way some working women tie their turbans is slightly different than what I have seen before. Suit+tie+white scarf is a common formal-wear for males. You don’t find yuppies at a festival like this. Plenty of people wear plaid shawls; I tried not to photograph many because I’ve done it before. I find it difficult not to photograph plaids.
My favourite photograph in this post(other than the first one) is of this man.
About this day: Seng Kut Snem is observed to mark the Seng Khasi Movement. This day is celebrated to mark the beginning of the renaissance and awakening of the Khasi community. Read more here.
Photos taken on November 23 2012 in Shillong, Meghalaya.
I’ve tried to put together the urban Indian crowd that attends fashion weeks(look at Bombay here). It’s a small filtered out crowd.
I’m sometimes asked about the trends I see in India. I can’t point at one thing and say this is happening. Can anybody? India is too vast and diverse. It looks like a lot is happening simultaneously within a small crowd. Colour blocking. Traditional/vintage mixed with new. Prints mixed with colours. Tailored. Structured. Asymmetry. Lot of customization and personalization.
You see a lot of people endorsing the designers they like. Borrowed for the day, gifted, or bought. (Lesly Lobeni in Varun Sardana. Karuna Laungani in Rahul Mishra. Sabina Halder in Abdul Halder. Ridhima Sud in Pia Pauro. Ruhi Sheikh in Bodice).
Designers wearing the clothes they make. (Arya John, Ruchika Sachdeva. Hiroko Takahashi.) There is Sarojini stuff combined with online stores. Old hand-me-downs(Carol Humtsoe). Vintage(Monica) Head to toe luxury(Pooja Khurana in Dior+Karen Miller). Models are usually in loose casual clothes and flat shoes. (A bit of generalization.)
Another thing you can’t help notice is the working class people at fashion weeks. You see them around on all days but start finding them in abundance on the last day as they start dismantling stages and stalls. It’s interesting to see how they mix with the fashion crowd. They move in lines. Mostly looking down. In & out of the same areas as everyone else – the smoking area, by the party lounges, the designers’ stalls, backstage. Through loud music, drunk happy people, media spotlight, celebrities. They don’t talk at all. Even when they are together they don’t seem to be talking much. Like they were told not to.
However, I didn’t photograph them just to show the contrast between the classes. Guess everybody knows it exists pretty much everywhere in India. I like their aesthetics.
All photos from 2011-2012 WIFW in Delhi.
In June, Wallpaper* did an India based issue – a part of their four year project. This being the third in its series to produce portraits of the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India and China) nations. In 2009, they were Made in China, last year they were Born in Brazil and this year they are Reborn in India.
Anand Tukaram is a 73 year old fisherman..stays in Versova village. When not fishing, he says, he and few of his friends just sit under a tree for long hours, and talk about life and politics.
Dheeman Agarwala is currently reading Kerouac’s Lonesome Traveller & just got himself a cook.
Munish Sharma, 25.
Munish used to be a theatre actor but then he gave up acting..now he works as a casting director & occasionally makes films. He likes the idea of nothingness & Old Monk rum; loves Zoolander & Warhol’s eccentricity; finds inspiration in Blake’s Marriage of Heaven and Hell; likes sunshine, drinking beer in the afternoons, & listening to Venus in Furs on loop…dislikes television, marathi language, and does not approve of circles.
“I like playing when people are around but they don’t necessarily have to be or act like an audience…”
Suhas can be found playing the flute at his regular spot under a tree at Prithvi Theatre…though only in the evenings.
Elton Fernandez, Hair/make up artist.
Marv D’souza, 25. Fashion Stylist. Marv can fix anything..from buttons to broken hearts. He grew up in Santa Cruz & spent most of his childhood looking at the sky & sketching. His first job was at 15; he did promotions and demos for a microwave company & made 4000 Rs. a month working 3 days a week. He likes Florence & The Machine, strawberries in Nutella, & street shopping. He can sing at the drop of a hat. Dislikes countdowns, gossip mongers, Lady Gaga, and malls.
Jagvir Matharoo. Blogs here.
Neville Bhandara, 22. Aspiring novelist. Currently in journalism. Feet firmly on the ground, head makes trips to the moon and back. Believes in “new ideas and intentions, ideological-revolution, people power…change, change, and change.” Likes smell of old books and new books. Loves T.S. Eliot, sushi, and Sartre.
Karan Berry. Shoe maker.
Sasa. Fashion Stylist.
Sasha Laloo, 26. Lives in Shillong. She is wearing a seconds coat from Iewduh; linen dress from Iewduh; self-made belt; bag from Berlin; socks from some trade fair; necklaces: traditional Khasi+ other few from Morjim Beach, Goa.
Girls of Summer. Photographed near Prithvi theatre at Juhu, Bombay.
Christina Hanghal is a 25 year old fashion stylist…will do anything to find the right window curtains.
Photo taken near St. Andrews Church in Bandra, Bombay.
Nidhi Sunil, 24. Fashion Model. Nidhi loves cats. And last night she finished a whole box of doughnuts.
I’ve been on the road for about 15 days now..shooting street fashion in a few small towns in India. More on this project soon. Last four photos are from Bareilly(my last stop), which is where I am right now. I got mobbed yesterday.
“…the most eye-popping, synapse-snapping, pulse-pushing place on the planet. “
– Wallpaper* on India
There is no God, no universe, no human race, no earthly life, no heaven, no hell. It is all a dream, a grotesque and foolish dream. Nothing exists but you. And you are but a thought –a vagrant thought, a useless thought, a homeless thought, wandering forlorn among the empty eternities.
– Mark Twain
A summer wardrobe that pays tribute to contemporary art and celebrates world’s different cultures…
–Missoni‘s SS2011 press release.
Jharna, 29. Net Editor(right)
Green flower print dress – Topshop
Shrug – Export surplus store, Kemps Corner
Bhumica, 27. Fashion designer(left)
Flower on her head – ?
Just living is not enough. One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.
– H.C. Anderson
You don’t really look forward to getting older, but as you reach a certain age, you think about it all the time. You get extremely selective about things you like and you don’t. You carefully choose what you want to do with your time. You feel the constant want to know more about more things while forgetting what you already know. You sleep early or at least try to, thinking you’d wake up early too. You ask bigger questions about the purpose of existence and meaning of life. You are happy, and you are terrified, and you are still in your 20s.
Being in this world, in this time, where change is constant, you just can’t help getting older. It is a part of nature. A never ending human experience.
Ripped/torn clothing has been in and out of fashion for decades but the last time it gained ground it had a better significance than before, probably because it was “reflecting recession,” in the sense – “poor state of economy = poor state of clothes.” No one wanted to look like they had money.So there were leggings, jeans, skirts & shorts – all slashed, mutilated but more expensive than before.
I wonder if most of the trends are born out of not caring. For example: the seams of the sweater in the photo above are coming off at the neck, and it is probably out of indifference or not having enough money to get it stitched or both.
Considering the unpredictability of fashion, I’m thinking if it’d become a trend some day for the top part of clothing as well, just as it did for bottoms. At the least, it could be argued, whether deliberate or not, the tearing of clothes, and the current state of the world economy are interestingly symbolic.
All Tibetan women are seen dressed up in long-sleeved shirts and striped aprons at the waist. According to the Tibetan custom, aprons are worn by women to indicate they are married. There are aprons in different colors, varying mostly in the sizes of the stripes. If a woman gets divorced or becomes a widow, she no longer wears an apron. Also, if observed, no Tibetan men wear rings or any other specific articles of clothing that indicate their marital status.
I am also wondering if old people worry about matters like – “So today I am going to the temple, and I should wear this black bowler hat with my brown walking stick, and canvas moccasins?”
Old folks of Dharamsala. Praying, turning beads between their fingers, counting; smiling at the unfamiliar, greeting the familiar; content; lost on the streets, and within selves.
Rida Gatphoh. ..was my batchmate at NIFT. She worked as a designer for a few years, got bored, started to work on her music more seriously…then something happened..she left Bombay, and is now teaching at NIFT, Shillong.